Adventures in a new land

Wednesday, November 28, 2007

From Waipio to Waimanu..... and back!
(and a hiker's ibuprofen log)
Charlotte's cousin Mark (who lives in Kailua, Oahu) organized a two day camping hike to Waimanu valley to take his sister Casey and her husband Ben and show them around. He invited me to come along (actually I kind of invited myself). He said it shouldn't be to bad (first flag should've popped up there).

Long story short: it is a BRUTAL hike! it's up there in the same league as the Grand Canyon. Although, it is also in the same league with the Grand Canyon in coolness!

It sort of goes like this: start at the Waipio Valley Lookout, hike one mile to the valley (drop in elevation approx 1300 ft), only 4x4 cars are allowed.

This is the hiking group (from the left: yours truly, Casey, Ben, Mark) at the Waipio Valley. You can barely see the floor of the valley off to my back, and the steep wall across the valley, that is where the hike starts, at the foot of that wall.....
Here is a view of the valley as you head down on the 4x4 road, and here is where your mind starts to play tricks on you "oh, this isn't that bad, that wall across the valley sure isn't that bad either"...

Here is the group, still smiling.... we just made it down to the beach in Waipio and are about to cross the river and head to the trail head..Note 1 to anyone planning this trip: take your shoes off when you cross this river, otherwise going on the hike with wet feet and socks it will be a pain!

Not quite mid into the climb a couple of views of Waipio below, the beach and the valley (now the legs are starting to burn and one is starting to think: " what the *%&@ was I thinking!")

The last stretch of the climb goes (thankfully) through a nice shady tamarisk forest..
Once up, one expects to get a nice view of Waimanu valley, after all, "it's just the valley next to Waipio".... instead one hikes through some very cool forests with giant trees (see the picture below, it's not just a picture of a tree, on the bottom left corner of the picture one can see the little silhouette of Mark as he walks past a giant tree)... and switch backs through some gulches, and crossing a couple of streams along the way, one finds this very discouraging sign......
by now it feels like one has been hiking at least 350 miles, turns out it's less than one mile from the trailhead at the foot of the wall! and that there are 12 gulches to cross between Waipio and Waimanu!.....oh dear!

But the, after 5.75 more miles of forests and streams one is rewarded with another sign that says: "blah blah blah, Waimanu 0.9 miles" and the following peek of the Waimanu beach:


and then begins one of the longest miles on the planet.... a grueling drop of 1600 ft in less than one mile (I swear it feels like 5 miles). And with every turn a better view of the majestic Waimanu Valley with its waterfalls that come out of the clouds:

But was it worth it? you betcha! we were the only ones in the entire valley! this is the view from our campground as we arrived that afternoon:
Here are Ben and Casey in front of their Waimanu residence after a refreshing swim in the ocean followed by a rinse in the cold stream. Mark had similar accommodations, and I had either the option of sharing a tent with him, or build my own...

I chose the latter....

Note 2 to people planning this hike: not sure if it's worth bringing a tent, but a tarp and some mosquito netting for sure, especially the mosquito netting, because at night those Waimanu mosquitoes come out with a vengeance! Also bring plenty of OFF...
Here we are enjoying a delicious chicken dinner prepared by Mark...

In the morning with the sun bringing in the light from a different angle the valley once again offered breath taking views...
Here is the team ready for departure after a healthy breakfast.. Note 3 to anyone planning on doing this hike: Strongly recommend to make this a 3 day trip. One day to get there, one day to hang out and explore the valley and one day to head back. A 2 day trip is way to short, does not give enough time to recover or to enjoy the valley...

Heading out crossing the Waimanu Valley Stream, little but deep! and this time we did take our shoes off.
That first 0.9 mile going up felt like 15 miles, it took us one hour to climb it! Here is the last view of the valley as we head out..
Ben and Casey through some of the Norfolk Pine forests. These were the biggest Norfolk pines I have ever seen! I kid you not!Back in Waipio crossing the river as we head out to the final climb...
And one last final post card view of Waipio Valley from the river mouth looking back at the valley

Fortunately as we were heading out, a couple in their pick up truck was leaving and offered us a ride up the last mile of paved road...otherwise we would probably be still there.

After having spent one week at the fancy Marriott Beach Club Ko'Olina in Oahu I can only say that: THIS is the real Hawai'i!


Hikers Ibuprofen Log:
800 mg lunch break day one
800 mg dinner day one
800 mg breakfast day two
800 mg dinner day two (at home)
800 mg breakfast day three, and legs still hurt....
Let's do that again!

7 Comments:

At 12:45 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

I stopped in to see if there was anything new, and what a delight to find this. I really enjoyed it.

Did you know that Macario's family is from Waimanu? That's where they lived until sometime in the 1800s, I think it was. And then as people started moving out of Waimanu, they lived in Waipi'o.

Leslie

 
At 6:20 AM, Blogger Romos at Hilo said...

I recall something about that...it is a beautiful place! how did they get in and out? did they hike or by boat? is that where he goes hunting?

hope you're all better

rr

 
At 7:01 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

sorry por no escribir en ingles, pero me he reido como no tienes idea de tu viaje, oye ese lugar lo vimos con piero desde arriba y dijiste que algundia lo harias, que padre que lo lograste, aunque el estomago se te haya hecho trizas con tanto analgesico,jeje
Me encanta el real hawaii. Sigue haciendo locuras, ya que yo ya no podre hacerlas, asi las disfruto.
Mama

 
At 10:58 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

hey guys, yeah two days is too short although when me and my cousings took my tutu Ruth's ashes back there we left at two in the morning did our ceremonies and were back next early evening at about four or five. That tutu grew up in Waimanu. During those days a lot of people walked back and forth to get supplies. My great great grandparents were fishermen so had canoes to get back and forth. It was weather dependent cause going upwind to Waipio was a hard paddle. I think people started to migrate out around the 1850's but some were still there through the 1890's.

Yeah my friends and I hunt there, the hogs are bigger. And theres food all over the valley if you know where to look. And theres springs there with good water. We usually try to stay a week.

It's probably one of my favorite places to be.

 
At 4:38 PM, Blogger Romos at Hilo said...

Macario:

Next time that you plan on going on a hunting trip to Waimanu, let me know.....I'd love to go, I'm no hunter but I could help with the cooking and stuff.....

great comment...

thanks...

 
At 6:03 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Wow what a trip,

Those switch backs looks narley. I bet your shins are aching. Now I understand why Char said you were hanging out in the bath with wine and a book so long. If you can get them there: dead sea salts are the best for soaking sore legs. I hope you're past that point now.
What a fantastic place! with everything growing so giant.
Reading about your hike was a fun diversion for me tonight. We upped our offer on the house we want in Stratford tonight and there are a lot of ifs involved, so sorry for being all wishy washy about when I'll come, but I'll come visit soon regardless.

Best,

Kelly

 
At 8:13 PM, Blogger Romos at Hilo said...

good luck on the house! and the leg aches are gone now.... as for the dates, the miles just keep piling up, so you say when...

cheers

rr

;-)

 

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